A blessing and a curse for bartenders, fermentation can elevate cocktails with a fresh wave of flavor—or drag them into the abyss of undrinkable brews. It all depends on how it’s used. And according to mixologist Umberto Oliva, that’s no minor detail.
His perspective centers on fermentation’s new lease on life. Fermented ingredients have long been part of the bartender’s toolbox—think wine, sparkling wines, beer, or even ginger beer. In more recent years, thanks in part to the influence of chef René Redzepi, a broader, more artisanal and local approach has taken hold. That’s the spirit Oliva refers to.
From Culture to Cocktail: The Power of Fermentation in the Glass
“Fermentation can be a powerful and contemporary tool, capable of adding aromatic complexity,” says Oliva. “When handled well, it can create a broader, layered flavour profile. And beyond taste, fermentation lets you work more sustainably—maximising scraps and less noble ingredients.”
Stylistically, fermentation “can make a cocktail feel current because it reconnects us to tradition. It’s the revival of an ancestral technique, reimagined with modern sensitivity. One that values raw materials, the narrative behind ingredients, and the chance to craft cocktails that surprise and reflect a new gastronomic culture.”
First Comes Awareness
To paraphrase a certain Spider-Man motto, with great potential comes great responsibility. “Like any other technique, fermentation needs to be used consciously. It should never be misused or managed without full understanding. If the few key parameters—pH, temperature, time and salinity—aren’t controlled, the result can lead to issues in both taste and hygiene. Fermentation is ‘alive’ and can easily get out of hand if not properly monitored.”
Three Tips for Aspiring Fermenters, Plus One
Given all of the above, Oliva’s first piece of advice comes as no surprise: “Understand the process. There may be only a few factors to keep track of, but they must be respected meticulously.”
His second tip: “Always start with quality ingredients, because fermentation amplifies what’s already there—poor raw material won’t improve over time.” Thirdly: “Taste and experiment thoughtfully, knowing when to stop or how to guide the fermentation to achieve the best flavour balance.”
And finally, “Always ferment out of intent and exploration, never just to follow a trend.” Though it comes at the end of Oliva’s reflection, this fourth tip could just as well have been the first. It’s a fundamental principle—not just when talking about fermentation.
Images credits of Julie Couder x Coqtail, location Niks & Co. All rights reserved.
