As night falls over Riyadh’s King Abdullah Financial District, the futuristic skyscrapers glow against the cool relief of the evening. A cosmopolitan crowd — expats and locals alike — flows through the streets, ready for dinner. But first, a final stop. At the counter of Il Baretto, amid blue walls, dark mahogany tables, and leather banquettes, with live music setting the mood, many gather for an aperitivo.
And despite Saudi Arabia’s alcohol ban, nothing stops them from sipping Negronis and Spritzes — expertly crafted zero-proof versions that stay true to their original aromatic profiles with premium alcohol-free alternatives. But the real question is: what are the locals actually buying? Why choose a $20 cocktail over a $5 cola, when they lack any direct reference? As the saying goes, you can’t crave what you’ve never tasted. The answer is simple: they’re not just buying a drink — they’re buying into an idea, a vision of La Dolce Vita, infused with bitter flavors and warm hues.
The Italian Aperitivo is Making its Way Around the World
And this same allure echoes from New York to London to Hong Kong, where bars embracing the aperitivo culture are reshaping the global nightlife scene. In New York’s Greenwich Village, Dante — founded in 1915 — has become a renewed icon of the Italian community, drawing in a stylish crowd with cocktails like the Garibaldi, its classic profile elevated by freshly squeezed orange juice. This venue was crowned the world’s best bar in 2019, reaffirming Italy’s influence on global mixology. In London, Bar Termini channels the elegance of 1950s Italy with refined cocktails and an intimate, café-inspired ambiance. In Asia, Bar Leone — launched in 2023 in Hong Kong — has brought the charm of Roman neighborhood bars abroad, securing the top spot in Asia’s 50 Best Bars in 2024.
The Common Thread: Italy
The success of this drinking culture has fueled a surge in sales for related product categories — first and foremost, bitters and aperitivo liqueurs, as well as vermouth — all with a common origin: Italy. Aperitivo is deeply ingrained in Italian lifestyle. According to the UIV Observatory, 43% of Italians enjoy an aperitivo at least once a week, and 98% at least once a month. While Millennials and Gen Z (especially those aged 25-34) make up the core audience, even the over-65 demographic has embraced the trend, with consumption rising by 112% over the past 15 years. Every month, Italians spend an average of over €120 on this cherished social ritual, engaging some 14 million people.
The Signature Drinks of the Italian Aperitivo
Two drinks define this success: the ever-dominant Spritz and the internationally acclaimed Negroni, which has sparked renewed interest in its lineage — from the Americano to the Sbagliato, the latter catapulted to global fame by TikTok. But what drives the enduring appeal of aperitivo culture? Beyond the irresistible allure of la dolce vita, two key factors play a decisive role. First, the evolution of global taste: a growing preference for bitter, botanical forward profiles has boosted demand for Italian bitters, vermouths, and aperitivo liqueurs.
In 2024, the market leader recorded €255 million in sales in the first nine months alone, marking a 6.9% increase over the past year. Second, a surge of craft producers is challenging the industry’s giants, introducing distinctive offerings — such as artificial colorant-free alternatives — that could redefine the category in the years ahead. Another major trend is the rise of low-ABV cocktails, further fueling the success of Italian aperitivo products.
The Rise Of Low-ABV Cocktails
Ideal for those seeking a lighter drinking experience, they embody a modern, mindful approach to mixology. The Spritz, the ultimate icon of Italian drinking culture, saw global sales reach 9.6 million cases in 2022, with continued growth through 2023 and 2024.
As demand surges, the market is expanding — legacy brands assert their heritage while new international players compete on price, quality, and volume. Just as sushi’s global success drove salmon exports, the worldwide aperitivo boom has fueled exports of Italy’s traditional mixing staples. This virtuous cycle seems boundless, because in every glass, there’s more than just a drink: there’s a Vespa ride along the Amalfi Coast, a Roman holiday, the pleasure of unwinding after a day of Milanese shopping. Every sip is a taste of Italy. And the world can’t get enough of it.
The article first appeared on Coqtail – for fine drinkers. Order your copy here
Photo by Julie Couder x Coqtail, location Lacerba Milano – all rights reserved
